Thursday, March 8, 2012

Parallel Parking Light Bulb Moment

March 3rd 2012
Today, we went to Taian Mountain. Amazing.

After we came down this World Natural and Cultural Heritage Landmark, we went to a Muslim Noodle restaurant. After the meal, I watched a woman take almost 5 minutes to parallel park. When she parked the first time around, and got out of the car, a man on the street shouted at her that she hadn’t parked between the two lines. (No, I don't speak Chinese and I was observing from a distance but that's what was being said). She went back and in due time, aligned her car perfectly with the sidewalk and between the offending lines.

Even if I didn’t see any men snickering at the time, I imagined the snide comments about women and parallel parking and how it took her so long while they could do it from the first try. I agree. They would do it from the first time, but not to this perfection.
I then had a light bulb moment.
Men do a half ass job and are actually proud of it, while women achieve perfection but still worry that they could have done it better.
When she got out of her seat, she went round to the back and picked up a tiny bundle, and held it close in the freezing weather. An infant. A mother. That’s how we mommies roll. Perfection and stress, while men half baked and proud. We could learn from each other.


Le Passage Cairo Hotel - Just Say No

If you are ever in Cairo, and need a place to stay, I would advise camping out in Tahrir Square, instead of staying in Le Passage Cairo Hotel.
As a Business Class Traveler with an 8 hour layover, Egypt Air booked me a room there on March 6th 2012. It was deplorable. The room was badly lit, toilet was broken, toilet door didn’t lock, phone/intercom only connected me to the sound of static. In addition to all of the above, stands the unforgiveable sin – internet connection not working.

No slippers in the room, so I had to choose between showering and sticking moist feet in my shoes or walking barefoot across the freezing tiles. I tried both. Equally unpleasant. Hotel stationery consisted of one bent piece of paper. The safe was only lockable via credit card so I had to walk around with my purse at all times. I do not have a valid credit card, and there was nothing to state what they were charging for this “service”. There were no electrical sockets for computers or phones, so I had to unplug the lights to recharge.

In the elevator, I ran into one of my co-workers who told me he had to change rooms because his was so dirty when he checked in.

On my out, I asked for water, as no drinking water was available in what should have been an executive room but wasn’t. The waitress/hostess/whatever they call them now brought me a glass that was so dirty, I would not let a dog drink from it.

To complete the check out of our delegation, we were left in the mercy of 3 concierges who made the decision that we should wait for the shuttle to join another hotel guest who was leaving on the same flight. I informed him that I did not care about their other guest and I wanted to go to the airport. In their Egyptian way, they stated that I was not to worry I was going to catch my plane. I stated that I wanted to leave and it was not their business to tell me when. True to Egyptian form I was told to calm down, which is the common attitude that the person that does not agree with them is hysterical and irrational.

We left the hotel 15 minutes after we were originally scheduled to, but did make our delayed flight with a detour at the Duty Free Shop, no thanks to them.

Next time you hear “Le Passage” run in the opposite direction.

For the record, I filled up the “Feedback Form” and expressed my overall rating of “Poor” and informed them that, no, I would not be interested in staying at their hotel again.

I also posted this on Tripadvisor.com and must agree with another reviewer on the skimpy towels.


Thursday, February 16, 2012

Sudan Now, Sudan Then Part I

February 14th 2012 (Happy Valentine’s Day!)
Part I
Our country is going through rough times now. I just asked myself why I don’t write about it. Is it because I know next to nothing about politics, or is it because I shy away from the inconvenient truth that is Sudan today? Even if I don’t know much about politics, I know a whole lot about my life, and I was told, at an early age, to write what I know.
I think of my family as “middle class”, however, in reality, if middle class means average, we are, with the blessings of Allah, in the top 10%. People of the “Industrialized World” or whatever you call yourselves now, would be surprised. I am sure that our concepts of middle class differ considerably.
My husband and I are both working professionals (knock wood, with today’s unemployment rates) and we have three small boys that teach us every day what is important in life. We have a roof over our heads, food on the table and the boys are enrolled in the appropriate bilingual schools. We thank God that we can pay for medical care when required.
Most Sudanese can’t say the same.
Most of my countrymen lack basic needs. And when we say basic, we really mean it. Running water, potable water, food, education and health care. These are things that Sudanese have learned to do without. To be clear, many didn’t have it to begin with, but today we see a generation, that instead of developing has moved backward in time. We listen to our parents tell us how they would call the doctor to come over if someone was sick, in the middle of the night. How gas was delivered to your house, and how, as university students, meals were prepared, laundry done, shoes shined and students could choose one of three beds to sleep in (room, yard or roof) according to weather conditions and their fancy.
When my parents were starting their lives, with three small girls, they lived in a house provided by the University of Khartoum, where they both taught. The pseudo-colonial houses were spacious and cool, with separate quarters for the help. They had nannies for the kids and servants for the laundry and ironing. A chicken coop out back and an extended kitchen where my mother learned to cook, also form part of this idyllic world I vaguely remember, although that is probably just my imagination, putting pictures in my head of the stories that I have heard.
As was common in those days, my father was politically active, although I wonder how this soft spoken man, with the highest moral threshold I have encountered in my life, could be involved in politics. Born into a family that was nearly destitute, he and his brother took turns working and studying to provide for their mother and sisters. The value of education was never lost on their journey. I often think that they could have chosen another route; starting a business, or seeking permanent employment, but it is obvious that this never occurred to those young men, who are both professors today. (May Allah bless them with good health and long lives).
I digress. I know. I will continue to do so, so please bear with me.
My dad and my uncle, in their struggle to provide for their family, in the absence of a father, chose religion as their guidance. In a family oriented society, they did not lack for father figures, but they chose the Prophet PBUH and scholars as their role models. This, I believe was what led them to allying themselves with an Islamic Party, early in their youth.
In those days, the best secondary education was to be found in three boarding schools, Hantoob, Wadi Sayidna and Khor Taggat. My father went to Hantoob. The young men of Sudan that studied and lived together in the 50s and 60s, have a bond that we will never understand. The school was a melting pot of social and cultural diversity that molded upstanding young men who learned, on their own, about equality, diversity and tolerance.
The Islamists and the Communists studied together, bunked together, and a few years later, were incarcerated together. I never heard of animosity between them, or anything similar to the fist fights that sometimes turned fatal, that were commonplace when we studied in the same University of Khartoum most of those boarding school lads ended up in.
The point I was trying to state, before meandering off into my father’s memories, is that under President Nimeri’s rule, my dad (who I call “Poppa”) and his cronies were periodically rounded up and thrown in jail. My father refers to this period as “being guests of the government” with a nostalgic look in his eye, and a catch in his throat.
It is hard to believe that friendships were forged and maintained behind various prison bars, as they were frequently shuttled around. He speaks of the inmate that taught them French, and the other who oversaw Quran Circles and tutored them in recitation. In jail.
When I was in my final year at University (or one of them at least), I visited the Police College to collect information for my thesis. I paid an initial visit to state my requirements, and arranged a follow-up visit, to collect said information. When I went back the second time around, my contact Major General Awad Widaatallah Hussein, was very excited. He could hardly contain himself.
He asked me my full name.
When I answered, he said, “Yes! And, your mother, she doesn’t wear the traditional Sudanese Tob, correct?”
“No, she doesn’t. Not on a daily basis anyway. She’s Egyptian.”
“Yes! And she likes the color blue?”
Frankly confused, first, because of the line of questioning, with no obvious relevance, and doesn’t everyone love blue?
“I guess” I replied.
He had been pacing, while interrogating me, and then he gestured that we were to leave his office, I was to follow him. Policeman in Police College. I followed. He led me to the Dean of the College, who got up from his desk, shook my hand warmly, and with extreme emotion. He kept repeating, “Mashallah, mashallah” which is a term that means “Glory be to God” and used when looking at something remarkable, often a child that has grown, which, apparently, was the case.
Finally, I got to hear the story.
When your father was in prison, I was the police officer assigned to your family. In those days, a policeman was assigned to take care of the families of political prisoners. We would drive you to prison visits, get your groceries and run errands. I was very moved by the plight of your mother, who was taking care of three young girls alone, and going to visit her husband in jail, sometimes taking you with her.
He kept shaking my hand and I realized my petite mother, who always does what needs to be done, and my father who is never less than dignified, had left a lasting impression on a fresh graduate, heading out into the real world. I could see in his whole demeanor, that the memory of that young family had not left him, and he had spent time wondering what had become of them. The fact that I came to him enrolled in the nation’s leading University (at the time) from one of the top departments (at the time) to design a theoretical Police Academy, was a full circle moment for him. I feel good that we were able to give him a happy ending. I just wish one of us could remember what his name was.
Something tells me that political prisoners are not given the same treatment these days.
Back to my young family...


UPDATE:
This is an excerpt from an email my father sent to a friend of his, who he forwarded this post to...

I  tell   some   of  what  was   going  on   in  that  six  months  and  ten  days   as "  guest  of  the  government ".
In   the  company  of  many  university  staff  , some   reputed  lawyers,  some   university  students , some  of  them  now  professors  and  very  high  ranking  civil  servants,  and  others  we   were  rounded  in  part  of  the  state   prison  that  was  and  probably  still  is  named   ironically  " Alsaraya"  meaning   'The  Palace'.   Among  other  things  I was  "Head Administrater'  of  the  group  mainly  caring  for  the  two  miserable    meals  of  the  day  and  organizing   cultural  and  sports  activities .    In  fact  it  was    my  sports  responsibilities       which    introduced  me  to   who  would later become  my  beloved   wife,  Taggy's   mother. 
 
During  that    wonderful  period   in  prison, I  met  wonderful  people  and   made lasting   friends ,  read  more  than    forty  volumes,   making  Quran  khatma  every   ten  days  ..among  other  things..In   prison  each  one  of  us   was   given  two  blankets. No  beds.  You   spread  blankets  on  floor   and  when  it  was  cold   use  one  as  cover.
You  think   six  months  and  ten  days   was  long.  Not  long  enough...my  brother  Tayeb  spent  two  full  years  as  "Guest  of  Government"    just  for  a  letter  found  with  him  which  I  wrote  to  him  while  he  was    in  Cambridge  for  his  PhD.. He  came  back  with  the  letter   as  part  of  his  personal  effects  and  never  realized   that  would  take  him  where  it  did.
Those  were     wonderful   years  that   brought   us  all  very  very   close.

Sunday, November 13, 2011

The Facilitator (Fiction)

Organized crime is just like every other organization, some small scale and some large scale. Business is business.

She smiled as she parked her car; if this had been anywhere other than Sudan, she would have had to take precautions against being recognized or photographed. Home, sweet home; no worries.

She walked up the stairs to an office, noting that the building was identical to dozens of others in downtown Khartoum. Nondescript can be a good thing, she thought. She pushed open the partially opened door and found herself in a miniature lobby. The kind that should act as a reception but oftentimes didn’t, an administrative wasteland.
A man got up from his desk in an inner office, indicating the direction she should take.
She walked in and without further ado, she said, “Her name is Arwa Ahmed, she lives in Al Manshia”, as she sat down in front of the desk.
“I’ll find her”, he replied.
“How much?” she asked, clutching her purse.
“No charge, a little treat for the boys, they won't want any money”, he smirked.
“And you?” she asked, “What's your charge?”
He looked at her and she could see him lick his lips for a moment, as he pretended to wipe his brow.
“This heat!” He exclaimed, deciding against making any remarks that would get him in trouble with the Doc. “You come from the Doc and you want to pay me? I am honored to be of service.” His intense stare indicated that this quote was to be conveyed verbatim.
Back to business, he asked, “Any special requests, a video perhaps?”
“You know what to do,” she said, “I won't tell you how to do your job.”
She stood up and stuck her hand out matter-of-factly, not flinching as he gave her a firm yet gentle handshake, gauging her reaction. She looked him in the eye, “I'll know when it's done, you don't have to call me. Good bye.”

She allowed herself to sweat as she walked back to her car. She turned on the air conditioning and locked the doors, then pulled out an antiseptic wipe and disinfected her hands, then her face, neck and arms for good measure. As she wiped off the encounter, she couldn't help wondering if she would have found the Facilitator attractive in another setting. Dark, big, burly but she quickly dismissed the notion. His round shoulders were a turn off.


Disclaimer: This is a work of fiction and in no way refers to real characters in Sudan, Khartoum or Manshia. Get over yourself.

Monday, June 13, 2011

What No One Told Me About Having Kids

  1. The moment you hold your child you know with all of your being, that you will kill anyone and anything to protect your baby.
  2. You will be periodically covered in spit-up.
  3. There will come a day when every family member is sleeping in the same bed.
  4. You will touch poop with your bare hands.
  5. Children can go without food for days.
  6. Constipation, constipation, constipation.
  7. Their pain physically hurts you more than your own.
  8. A smile will turn your heart to jelly.
  9. Innocuous objects take on horrifying "potential hazard" status.
  10. There is no “off” button for mommyhood.
  11. You pray for your children’s health and safety with every breath you take.
  12. You do not comprehend how other people do not find your child enchanting.
  13. The sight of children in their pajamas never gets old.
  14. You develop a supersonic sense of hearing.
  15. You can identify individual potty requirements via smell.
  16. Tantrums pass.
  17. Neither Dr. Phil nor Supernanny will always approve of your parenting methods.
  18. You will translate for your spouse and other people what your child said, puzzling at the fact that they did not understand it in the first place.
  19. You will kiss your children till they squeal or cry.
  20. Children can and will cause you considerable bodily harm but you will sit patiently as they try to gouge your eyes out, tear off your ears, bite your nose and jaw, stamp your feet and dislocate your fingers.
  21. You will never be able to tell your children how much you love them.
  22. Your children will think you are ridiculous very early in their lives; it is not an adolescent thing.
  23. Your heart will stop when you look into your child’s eyes.
  24. Nothing is more fun than the games we make up with our children.
  25. The only thing more beautiful than a sleeping baby is a baby waking up smiling.



Things you will be thankful for:
1. These tiny personal miracles.
2. Pampers.
3. The fact that children are 100% washable.
4. Unsolicited hugs and kisses.
5. Your parents.
6. Barney.
7. Spacetoon.
8. French fries and chicken nuggets.
9. Naps
10. Daycare.
11. Doors.
12. Time out.
13. Laughter.
14. Help.


At least once a day, you will…
1. Only pretend to listen to your spouse and/or children.
2. Hide from your children in undignified ways.
3. Wonder how on earth you got here.
4. Tell yourself you never signed on for this.
5. Do a double take in front of the mirror.
6. Think about death
7. Experience a moment of pure happiness and love, like no other.
8. Cry for no apparent reason.
9. Doubt yourself.
10. Know with absolute conviction that you have made the right decision, contrary to popular belief, expert opinion, textbooks or Google.
11. Take photographs with your mind.
12. Throw your head back and laugh.
13. Rack your brains to answer a simple question posed by your child (“Why” and “What is that?” are the original pitfalls).
14. Observe your child in complete awe.
15. Think of your parents with newfound love and respect.


We hope we have been of service. Send us some of your own Marriage and Motherhood Facts.

This too was written in June 2010. Also never published, and I will sue your rear end if you try to plagiarize this or any of my work. Thank you:-)

What No One Told Me About Marriage.

You Are Not Alone:

First comes love, then comes marriage, then comes a baby in a baby carriage.

So, goes the saying. But they left a large chunk out.

Marriage; there’s a reason it’s called an institution.

I will not say I walked into this institution bright-eyed and naïve. I like to think I kind of knew what to expect. I was so wrong. The following is what I did not know, which is surprisingly everything. I have been blessed, I know, and I am thankful for my husband and children. No harm in some humorous analysis of the situation. Wives and mothers may relate to some points and not others. Husbands, this is how it looks like from where we’re sitting. You’ll get your chance to state your perspective too. As for those on the verge of beginning this venture, please take the time to educate yourselves.


If you think that getting married means living a continuous whirlwind romance, with a boyfriend for life, you are wrong. I will outline many of the misconceptions that strike a newly married woman. Some she comprehends immediately, while others take a while. Some days, some of these realities are more relevant than others, so, in no particular order, here we go…

A husband does not catch his breath and tell you how beautiful you are every time you dress up. He will probably just nod his head, and ask, “Can we go now?”

When you sit in the dark crying, your husband does not wipe away your tears. Contrary to our Hollywood/Bollywood expectations, he will not wipe away the tears gently with the back of his hand, cup your face, gaze deeply in your eyes and tell you, with absolute conviction, that everything is going to work out, just let him handle it. He may ask (with a touch of exasperation), “What’s wrong now?”(Sometimes the ‘now’ is silent).

A husband is very different from a boyfriend. A husband may spend an entire day thinking of you, but not in a good way.
Listening to Freddie Jackson over the years, may cause you, very very early on in your marriage, to wake your husband up in the middle of the night, to tell him that you can’t sleep. Don’t. He will not think it is charming, he will not ask you why nor will he try to talk it through with you, as you drink the glass of warm cocoa he got up and prepared.

As a modern woman, in modern times, you probably had lengthy discussions prior to marriage, broadly outlining each spouse’s “responsibilities”. He will have stated various preferences, with varying emphases. You will have stated specific chores that you are not comfortable with, or delightfully ignorant of. Some days, these “discussions” are light-hearted, pedantic and specific. Other days, they became heated; phones were shut, doors were slammed, and text exchanges ranged from pointed comments to, eventually, conciliatory text messages.

When you move into your love nest, you will congratulate yourself on having “agreed” on all the important issues. Too soon. You will then find yourself in a situation where you soon discover: your home, your responsibility. However much you may enjoy the initial bickering and loving banter, you will wise up to the fact that if something is not done it’s your fault (“You didn’t remind me” is a phrase men actually use with a straight face) and if you want something done, it is easier or more effectively accomplished when you take the reins. (The term passive-aggressive comes to mind, but let’s not start labeling the menfolk just yet).

Having your kingdom “just so” is nice. However, there are some days when your house is not picture perfect, and that is just fine.
Contrary to popular belief, modern science has approved the following: you will go to bed angry. You do not have to resolve each and every issue just in time for everyone involved to get a good night’s sleep. Recent studies reveal that it is alright to sleep on it, and thank heaven for that, because good luck finding a man who wants to talk about your relationship issues late into the night.

You may be blessed with the best husband in the world, and some of the above statements will still be applicable. Marriage is a two-way street, and we are only human, regardless of our husbands’ insistence that we are angels:-|, this fact we must concede. Unlike many of our regional sisters, women in Sudan are blessed with a voice we are not afraid to use, loud and often. I like to think that our men do not consider us inferior, and treat us with respect.

The reality of marriage is vastly different from our original expectations. The sooner you realize the existence of differences, embrace the changes and implement them into your life, the happier you will be. Celebrate the differences.

I believe that the most important aspect of any venture is a positive attitude. Laugh more. It will lower your blood pressure, and draw positive people to you. Put your family first in your priority list. Take the time, make the effort. I guarantee this is one venture where you will be generously rewarded.

And, finally, when it comes to marriage, there are no guarantees.


I wrote this article June 2010 but it was never published.

Monday, June 28, 2010

Severance Pay in Sudan - or Lack Thereof

Severance Pay in Sudan – or Lack Thereof

We live in a society where people think they are terribly clever for withholding monies due. This can be a buyer defaulting on a final payment, someone who “borrowed” money, or an employer delaying employee salaries and payments, in addition to various people from various walks of life who owe each other money for one reason or another. This has become an acceptable form of petty entertainment and self congratulation.
It is an indicator of a man, the manner he treats people he perceives as inferior to him, in status, grade or organizational hierarchy. It is the mark of a great man, who can deal fairly and even-handedly with all people, regardless of standings he knows does not exist. Such is my father. May Allah bless him and my mother with good health and prosperity.

“Would you laugh if I told you I forgot?” says the former Employer, laughing all by himself. A deadpan reaction prompted a switch to defensive mode, “People forget you know. Don’t BE like that” and then, a fallback on an old favorite, disputing the basis for payment in the first place. Sadly predictable, you clever clever, petty man. And, later defending the dispute, as a “response” to a remark I made.


AFTER PAYMENT – Which happened to be the next day after sitting myself on a prayer rug, and submitting my fate to my Creator (SWT). My livelihood is in His hands, and He granted me, what was mine. In spite of, in this case literally, Man’s best efforts.

Only a bad person would make you wait six months for monies due, after “asking” you to sign a legal waiver, and two months after a texted “promise” to resolve things within “a week”. Then, try and make YOU feel bad about it, saying that you “forced” him to “borrow it”, with the “so you get out of my face, you money-grabbing, gold-digger” thinly veiled. He goes on to tell you that you’re a “disappointment” when it “comes to money”. Well, right back at you, ya Mowlaana, right back at you. Hope your VIP Hajj isn’t too much of a hassle this year.

Also stated, among my many failings, was my attitude and tone of voice. Excuse me if I let out a yelp as the repo men, or their Sudanese equivalent, swagger up my virtual driveway. It’s like dialing 911, and the operator says, “Don’t you take that tone of voice with me. You want help, you better change your attitude, and speak respectfully” or some such crap. Which is all it is. Crap. The refuge of the cornered tyrant.

He went on to explain that he had found my request for a post-dated check “offensive” because he doesn’t “have a checkbook”. He finds checkbooks offensive, but has no problem with credit cards, and if you are a casual observer of Islamic banking, you will know what is wrong with his declaration. So, the devout believer is selective in his applications. Surprise, surprise. Needless to say, the golden directive in Islam regarding the Employer, is the Prophet’s (PBUH) instruction to pay the employee, “before the sweat dries on his brow”. That is another peace of Islamica, like taxation and severance pay, our hero chose to disregard.

Nothing is more admirable than the fortitude with which millionaires tolerate the disadvantages of their wealth.
- Rex Stout